A slow country on the Mekong
Laos is a small, mountainous, landlocked country between Thailand, Vietnam and China. It has about eight million people, most of them living in the countryside along the rivers. Life here moves more slowly than in neighbouring countries, and that is exactly its charm.
Four things worth knowing in advance
1. You fly to Laos via Bangkok or Hanoi
There are no direct flights from Europe to Laos. Most people fly to Bangkok or Hanoi and from there take a short flight (about 1–1.5 hours) to Luang Prabang or Vientiane. Details in the chapter Flights.
2. The train links the north, roads do the rest
The main route Vientiane – Vang Vieng – Luang Prabang is now covered by a modern high-speed train in under two hours. Elsewhere you travel by minivan on winding mountain roads, where 100 km can take three hours. For the south, it pays to fly.
3. The river is the road
Boats still run on the Mekong and its tributaries: to the Pak Ou caves, to the village of Muang Ngoi, between the islets in the south. No one travels on the river after dark.
4. Cash, calm and respect
You pay in kip, mostly in cash. People are quiet and polite; nobody argues loudly or haggles aggressively. In temples, take your shoes off and cover your shoulders and knees. Places close early: by 10–11 pm it is quiet.
You cannot “do” Laos quickly. Whoever slows down and stays in one place for several days sees more than someone who packs up every day.
How you will travel
From a high-speed train to a wooden boat. Prices are approximate, with euro conversions in brackets (€1 ≈ 25,000 kip). Timetables change, so always check them before you go.
Laos–China high-speed train
A clean, punctual and fast connection. Vientiane → Luang Prabang takes about 1 h 45 min on the express, and all trains stop in Vang Vieng. Since April 2026, second class costs about 360,000 LAK (≈ €14), slightly more on the faster D trains. Tickets go on sale only 3 days ahead, and popular trains sell out Verified: Tourism Laos, 4/2026. The stations are far outside town (Luang Prabang 12 km, Vientiane 16 km).
River boats
Long, narrow motorboats take people where roads do not go: from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoi (about an hour), from Luang Prabang to the Pak Ou caves, between the islands in the south. Transport and an experience at the same time.
Tuk-tuk and songthaew
In towns there are tuk-tuks (a motorbike with a cab), and between villages songthaews, pickup trucks with benches in the back. Agree the price beforehand. In Vientiane and Luang Prabang you can also use the LOCA app (similar to Uber) Check.
Slow boat on the Mekong
The two-day trip from the Thai border (Huay Xai) via Pak Beng to Luang Prabang is a backpacker classic. It does not suit your trip: it starts in a border area that some governments advise against, and it takes two days.
Minivan
The main transport besides the train. A shared van from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw takes about 3.5–5 hours and costs about USD 9–13; a private van or SUV for the whole group about USD 115–180 Verified: 12Go, 11/2026. The roads are narrow and winding; if you get carsick, bring motion-sickness tablets.
Car with driver
The most comfortable way for day trips and transfers. Your accommodation or a travel agency can arrange one. I do not recommend driving yourself: roads are in poor condition, animals wander on them and driving is aggressive.
Domestic flights
Lao Airlines flies from Vientiane to Pakse (in the south) several times a day, and from Luang Prabang to Pakse several times a week Check for your dates. It saves a whole day on a bus.
Into Luang Prabang, home from Vientiane
As with the Philippines, a “multi-city” ticket pays off: fly into Luang Prabang in the north, travel south by train and fly home from Vientiane. Prices change fast, so they are not listed here; below is how to search.
Out: Prague → Luang Prabang
Most often via Bangkok: from Prague with one connection to Bangkok (Emirates, Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, Etihad and others), then about an hour and a half on to Luang Prabang (about an hour from Hanoi). From Bangkok, Bangkok Airways and Lao Airlines fly, and Thai AirAsia from Don Mueang airport Verified 5 Nov 2026.
Via Hanoi: Vietnam Airlines and Lao Airlines fly from Hanoi to Luang Prabang. In total, expect two connections and 20–24 hours of travel.
Back: Vientiane → Prague
From Vientiane you again fly via Bangkok, Hanoi or other Asian hubs (Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul) Check specific routes. The train gets you from Vang Vieng to Vientiane in an hour.
Bangkok has two airports: Suvarnabhumi (BKK) and Don Mueang (DMK) are an hour apart. Make sure you do not have to change between them.
How to search
- Google Flights, “Multi-city” modePrague → Luang Prabang (LPQ) 28 Dec and Vientiane (VTE) → Prague 16 Jan. For comparison, also a return flight to Luang Prabang only.
- One ticket all the way to LaosIdeally the short flight from Bangkok or Hanoi is on the same ticket. If there is a delay, the airline rebooks you and your bag goes through to the destination.
- Otherwise, leave a big bufferWith two separate tickets, allow at least 4–5 hours in Bangkok, or stay the night there.
- Book earlyNew Year is peak season in Laos, and the small planes to Luang Prabang fill up.
- Sort out your visaThe easiest is an eVisa in advance (see Practical). At Luang Prabang airport you can also get a visa on arrival.
A dry, sunny winter
January is the middle of the dry season in Laos. It hardly rains, skies are usually clear and the days pleasantly warm. In the north, though, mornings are cool and the valleys are wrapped in mist, which is also the most beautiful view from the lookouts.
North (Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw)
Around 24–28 °C by day, 13–14 °C in the morning, colder in the mountains. About 1–2 rainy days a month. Mist in the valleys usually until 9–10 am.
Centre (Vang Vieng, Vientiane)
A little warmer, around 28 °C in the afternoon. Ideal for hikes to viewpoints, kayaking and cycling.
South (Pakse, 4,000 Islands)
The warmest, around 30 °C by day. Good for anyone who wants real heat and a swim in the river.
Smoke from field burning
From February to April fields are burned in Laos and the air is often smoky. January is usually still clear. The government banned burning from January to April, but in 2026 the air was still unhealthy in March and April Verified: The Star, Laotian Times 2026.
What else to pack
A fleece or light jacket for mornings and evenings (in the north and on boats), long trousers for temples, sturdy shoes for slippery limestone trails.
Estimate These are long-term averages, not a forecast. The strong El Niño affecting all of Southeast Asia this year may deepen the drought and bring the smoky season forward. Check the forecast a week before you leave.
The north by rail, the south by air
The best part of Laos for three weeks is the north: Luang Prabang, the Nam Ou valley with Nong Khiaw, and the karst landscape around Vang Vieng. They are linked by train and short transfers. The south is warmer and quieter, but it is a separate region best reached by air.
Route A: the north only (recommended)
- Arrive in Luang PrabangVia Bangkok or Hanoi.
- Luang PrabangTemples, the alms giving, waterfalls, the Mekong.
- Minivan to Nong KhiawAbout 3.5–5 hours, or a private van.
- Back to Luang Prabang, then by train to Vang ViengVan in the morning, train in the afternoon (about an hour).
- Train to Vientiane and fly homeAbout an hour by train, then home.
Only three bases, short transfers, no domestic flights.
Route B: north and south
- Luang Prabang and Nong KhiawAs in route A.
- Vang ViengA shorter stay.
- Flight Vientiane → PakseAbout an hour’s flight.
- 4,000 Islands and ChampasakThe Mekong, waterfalls, the Khmer temple of Wat Phou.
- DepartureVia Vientiane or Bangkok.
Warmth and the river at the end of the trip, but four places and one more domestic flight.
Luang Prabang
Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi
Vang Vieng
SouthWhere to stay and how to find flights
For each base: the recommended area and three real places at different price levels. Each link opens Booking with the dates from the itinerary (3 adults). New Year is peak season in Laos, so book Luang Prabang well ahead.
Luang Prabang · 6 nights 29 Dec – 4 Jan
Stay on the old-town peninsula or right next to it. Temples, the night market and the monks' morning alms round are all within walking distance.
Mekong Charm Riverside
old town
€budget Estimate
Budget, yet in the historic centre.
Prices and availability 29 Dec – 4 Jan →Sakaodeuan Hotel
old town
€€mid-range Estimate
In the old town, a short walk from the Mekong.
Prices and availability 29 Dec – 4 Jan →The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel
old town, on the Mekong
€€€upscale Estimate
Boutique hotel in colonial-era houses.
Prices and availability 29 Dec – 4 Jan →Nong Khiaw · 5 nights 4 Jan – 9 Jan
A village on both banks of the Nam Ou river, joined by a bridge. Look for a room with a view of the river and the cliffs.
Meexai Guesthouse
south bank
€budget Estimate
Simple guesthouse near the bridge.
Prices and availability 4 Jan – 9 Jan →Mandala Ou Resort
north bank
€€mid-range Estimate
Bungalows above the river, with a pool.
Prices and availability 4 Jan – 9 Jan →Nong Kiau Riverside
south bank, by the river
€€€upscale Estimate
The most comfortable bungalows in the village.
Prices and availability 4 Jan – 9 Jan →Vang Vieng · 6 nights 9 Jan – 15 Jan
Stay by the Nam Song river or across it, facing the karst hills. The main street can be noisy at night.
Bearlinbungalow
across the river
€budget Estimate
Quiet bungalows among the fields.
Prices and availability 9 Jan – 15 Jan →ViengTara VangVieng Resort
across the river
€€mid-range Estimate
Cottages among the rice fields, facing the hills.
Prices and availability 9 Jan – 15 Jan →Riverside Boutique Resort
by the river, near the centre
€€€upscale Estimate
Garden and pool right above the river.
Prices and availability 9 Jan – 15 Jan →Search for flights
The links open a search with the dates from the itinerary. Compare, then buy directly from the airline.
One multi-city ticket (in Google Flights) is usually best. For the night of 15 Jan in Vientiane, the centre near the riverfront is fine. Train tickets are bought separately, see Transport.
Check Selected 6 Nov 2026. You book everything yourself, directly with the hotel or airline or through a search site. The links only open a search with your dates. Places are chosen for location and reviews, and nobody pays to be listed. Prices and availability change: read recent reviews and cancellation terms before you book.
Map of places with photos
Every place in the guide on one map. Click a photo on the map or a card in the list. Use the filter to narrow down the area or type of place. Tap the heart on what you want to see. The list is shared: first choose who you are, and for each place you will see who wants to see it. This list is separate from the Philippines one.
Locations on the map are approximate. The “Google Maps” button in a place card finds the exact spot. The switch at the top right of the map shows a satellite view.
What else, and why it is not on the main route
Laos has other exceptional places. Here, briefly, is what they offer and why this page does not put them at the centre.
Kong Lor Cave
A river flows through a 7.5 km cave, and you travel through it by boat in the dark, with only a head torch. The boat costs 250,000 LAK (≈ €10) per person. But from Vientiane it is about 10 hours by bus, and you can only return the next day.
Plain of Jars (Phonsavan)
Over 2,000 stone jars more than 2,000 years old, a UNESCO site. The area is the worst affected by unexploded ordnance from the war, so you walk only on marked paths. In January the nights are cold at around 1,000 m. A full day by road from Luang Prabang.
Vientiane
A calm capital with the great golden stupa of Pha That Luang, French boulevards and an evening Mekong riverside. One day before your flight is enough.
Luang Namtha
The starting point for multi-day treks through forest and the villages of mountain minorities in the north. Truly authentic, but far away and with basic accommodation.
What to look forward to beyond the viewpoints
Lao food is fresh, herby and spicy. Its foundation is sticky rice, served in a little wicker basket and eaten with your hands: you dip a ball of rice into sauces and salads.
- Laap – the national dish, a salad of minced meat or fish with herbs, lime and toasted rice.
- Tam mak hoong – spicy green papaya salad (in Thailand, som tam).
- Or lam – a thick vegetable stew with meat, a Luang Prabang speciality.
- Mekong fish – grilled with salt and lemongrass.
- Khao jee – a baguette, a legacy of the French, eaten for breakfast with coffee.
- Bolaven coffee and Beerlaobeer, which Laotians are proud of.
The strongest experiences are often quiet: the morning alms giving to monks in Luang Prabang, a market where villagers sell herbs and fish, sunset over the Mekong, mist over the Nam Ou. On New Year’s Eve, Luang Prabang celebrates mostly with fireworks by the river; the Lao New Year (Pi Mai) is not until April.
A few words of Lao
You can get by in English at your accommodation and tourist places, much less in the countryside. A few Lao words always go down well. A greeting comes with a slight bow, palms pressed together (nop).
Route ideas
Two variants for 20 days, both departing 28 December 2026 and returning 17 January 2027. I recommend three bases in the north, so you do not have to keep moving. If you want warmth and the south too, choose the four-place variant. Take it as a starting point.
Luang Prabang · 6 nights
Temples, the alms giving, Kuang Si, Pak Ou, New Year’s Eve on the Mekong riverside. A slow pace at the start after the long flight.
Nong Khiaw · 5 nights
Viewpoints above the Nam Ou, a boat to Muang Ngoi, treks to villages and waterfalls. The calmest part of the trip.
Vang Vieng · 6 nights
Karst mountains, caves, kayaking on the Nam Song, cycling between rice fields. Then by train to Vientiane.
| Dates | Where | Nights | How to get there |
|---|---|---|---|
| 28.–29. 12. | Prague → Luang Prabang | – | Flight with a connection in Bangkok or Hanoi, arriving 29 Dec. |
| 29. 12. – 4. 1. | Luang Prabang | 6 | From the airport by tuk-tuk, or a car arranged by your accommodation (about 15 min) |
| 4.–9. 1. | Nong Khiaw | 5 | Minivan or private van, about 4.5–5 h |
| 9.–15. 1. | Vang Vieng | 6 | Van back to Luang Prabang, train in the afternoon (about 1 h). The connection is tight, and the station is 12 km out of town. Tickets 3 days ahead Check the timetable. |
| 15.–16. 1. | Vientiane | 1 | Train about 1 h, station 16 km from town |
| 16.–17. 1. | Vientiane → home | – | Flight via Bangkok or Hanoi |
Only two moves between bases and one short train at the end. The night in Vientiane is insurance before the long-haul flight; you can skip it and take the train on the day you fly.
| Dates | Where | Nights | How to get there |
|---|---|---|---|
| 28.–29. 12. | Prague → Luang Prabang | – | Flight with a connection |
| 29. 12. – 3. 1. | Luang Prabang | 5 | – |
| 3.–7. 1. | Nong Khiaw | 4 | Minivan, about 4.5–5 h |
| 7.–11. 1. | Vang Vieng | 4 | Van to Luang Prabang, then the train |
| 11.–16. 1. | South: Don Khone or Champasak | 5 | Train to Vientiane, flight to Pakse, then by car (about 2.5–3 h) |
| 16.–17. 1. | Pakse → home | – | Flight to Vientiane or Bangkok Check routes and on home |
More warmth and the Mekong with its islands at the end, but one more move and one more domestic flight, and shorter stays in the north.
Before you go
Visa
Verified: Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs Czech and most EU citizens need a visa. The easiest option is an eVisa for USD 50, processed in about 3 working days, for stays of up to 30 days, valid among others at Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Pakse airports. You can also get a visa on arrival at the airport (for Czech citizens usually USD 40 in cash plus a passport photo; check). Passport valid for 6 more months.
Arrival form
Laos is introducing an online arrival and departure form (at immigration.gov.la), filled in up to 3 days before arrival. According to the Czech Foreign Ministry it does not yet apply to tourist visa holders; the Canadian government lists it as an option alongside the paper form Check before you go. Make sure you get an entry stamp.
Safety
Verified: Canada, 15 Oct 2026 Laos is a calm country for tourists. Do not travel to Xaisomboun province, nor in Bokeo province within 10 km of the borders with Myanmar and Thailand (including Huay Xai), nor to the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. Nobody travels on the Mekong after dark. Petty theft happens, so watch your bags.
Unexploded ordnance
Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world per capita (the war of the 1960s and 70s). Tourist places are safe, but do not leave marked paths or walk in fields and ditches, especially on the Plain of Jars and near the Vietnamese border. The COPE museum in Vientiane explains it all.
Alcohol and drugs
Verified: Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs In November 2024 several tourists died in Vang Vieng from methanol in drinks. Drink only sealed bottles and beer, not cheap mixed drinks or “free shots”. Drug penalties are extremely harsh; do not buy “happy” pizzas or shakes.
E-cigarettes
Importing, possessing or using e-cigarettes and vaporisers (including heated tobacco and water pipes) is banned in Laos, with heavy fines and even arrest. Leave them at home. Stations also check for pocket knives and flammables.
Health
The main risk is dengue fever: use repellent and wear long sleeves in the evening. Some rural areas have malaria; ask a travel clinic about prevention. Drink bottled water. Healthcare is basic, and serious cases are taken to Thailand. Insurance with air evacuation is a must.
Money and prices
Euro conversions in brackets use €1 ≈ 25,000 LAK (November 2026) and are rounded. Bring dollars or euros in cash. ATMs are in towns, dispense small amounts at a time and charge a fee. Only better hotels and restaurants take cards. Tourist sights cost tens of thousands of kip.
Phone and apps
Buy a SIM or eSIM (Unitel, Lao Telecom) at the airport with your passport. A Lao number also helps when buying train tickets in the LCR Ticket app (pay by Visa, not Mastercard). Useful: offline Google Maps, Google Translate, LOCA.
Customs
In temples, take off your shoes and cover your shoulders and knees. Women must not touch a monk or hand him anything directly. Never touch anyone’s head, and never point your feet at anyone or at a Buddha statue. During the alms giving, stay quiet and use no flash.
Packing
A warm layer for the mornings, long trousers, water sandals (caves, boats, waterfalls), sturdy hiking shoes, swimwear, a head torch, a dry bag, a power bank. Sunscreen and a hat.
In an emergency
Police 1191, ambulance 1195, fire 1190. For Laos, the responsible mission is the Czech Embassy in Bangkok, and there is an honorary consulate in Vientiane. Czech Foreign Ministry 24/7 line: +420 222 420 222. Other nationalities: check your own embassy.
Where I would go
Both countries are in their best season in January, and both offer nature, peace and authentic places. But they differ in one fundamental way: Laos has no sea. The comparison is based on your brief: active travel, nature, beaches, hiking, snorkelling and few tourists.
| What I compare | Philippines (Camiguin, Bohol, Negros) | Laos (north) |
|---|---|---|
| Sea, beaches, snorkelling | The main reason for the trip: coral reefs, turtles at Apo Island, white beaches | No sea. Swimming in rivers and waterfall pools |
| Hiking and nature | Volcanoes, rainforest, waterfalls; in heat and humidity | Karst viewpoints, rivers, caves; in pleasantly cooler air |
| Culture and local life | Colonial churches, village life, loud celebrations | Monasteries, monks, the alms giving, UNESCO-listed Luang Prabang |
| January weather | 24–31 °C, warm sea, mostly sunny (El Niño) | Dry and sunny, but 13 °C mornings; smoke from February |
| Getting there | To Cebu with one connection (Emirates via Dubai) | Usually two connections (a Gulf hub and Bangkok or Hanoi) |
| Getting around | Boats and small planes, dependent on weather and timetables | Train and minivan, simpler and more predictable |
| How many tourists | Camiguin, Anda and Dauin are quiet | Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng are full in January; Nong Khiaw quieter |
| Entry | Visa-free, just the online eTravel registration | eVisa USD 50 or a visa on arrival |
| Risks | Possible typhoons (low risk in January), dengue | Unexploded ordnance off the paths, methanol, dengue |
| Prices on the ground | Cheap | Even a little cheaper |
A highlighted cell means that, in my view, this country comes out better on that point.
My choice: the Philippines
For this trip I would choose the Philippines. Beaches and snorkelling are among the main wishes in the brief, and Laos cannot offer that. The Philippines add volcanoes, waterfalls and hikes, stable weather in January and places with genuinely few tourists. Getting there with one connection is also simpler.
When Laos would win
If you would not miss the sea and are drawn more to culture, monasteries, rivers and hiking in pleasantly cooler air. Laos is also easier to get around (trains instead of boats) and less weather-dependent. It is an excellent choice for another trip, ideally November to January, before the smoky season begins.
I do not recommend combining both countries in one trip: there is no direct flight between the Philippines and Laos, and connecting via Bangkok or Hanoi would cost two days out of twenty.
Where to read more
Official information
Laos – travelCzech Ministry of Foreign Affairs Laos – visas and entryCzech Foreign Ministry Laos travel adviceGovernment of Canada · 15 Oct 2026 · detailed and up to date Lao eVisaofficial visa applicationPlaces
Luang Prabang – guideGecko Routes · 5/2026 · admission prices Nong Khiaw – Pha Daeng viewpointGoAsia · 10/2026 · boats to Muang Ngoi Things to do in Nong KhiawGo Laos Tours Nam Xay viewpoint in Vang ViengPassport and Stamps · 1/2026 Kong Lor CaveBackpack Moments · 6/2026 Pakse, Wat Phou and the BolavenBucketlistly · 11/2026 Don Det and the 4,000 IslandsGecko Routes · 5/2026Getting around
Vientiane – Luang Prabang trainBackpack Moments · 12/2025 · prices, tickets, app Luang Prabang → Nong KhiawGoAsia · 10/2026 12Go – minivans and trainsbooking and timetablesWeather and air quality
Luang Prabang weather by monthclimate averages Field-burning ban in LaosThe Star · 24 Jan 2026 The smoky season – how bad is itBackpack MomentsPhilippines
Guide to the Philippinesthe second page of the pairPhoto credits
All photos come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the free licences stated. Click a name to open the original.